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H&M expands product transparency for online apparel - Retail Dive

H&M expands product transparency for online apparel - Retail Dive


H&M expands product transparency for online apparel - Retail Dive

Posted: 24 Apr 2019 07:42 AM PDT

Dive Brief:

  • H&M on Tuesday unveiled a new transparency initiative, saying it is now sharing details for each garment it sells on hm.com, including the country where it's produced, supplier names, factory names and addresses, and the number of workers in each factory.

  • Customers also "can find out more about the materials used to make a specific garment," according to a company press release. The details can be accessed when shopping online, and in physical stores by using the H&M app to scan the price tag, according to the release. 

  • The "majority" of H&M home goods products sold on its website will list those details as well, the company said, adding that it will continue to explore "how we can continue to bring relevant information to our customers."

Dive Insight:

H&M has long moved to blunt criticism of its fast-fashion operations with production of more sustainably produced lines — including its release of a "Conscious Collection" each spring since 2010.

And transparency around its production isn't new for H&M either. In fact, the Fashion Law blog and, most recently, Harper's Bazaar magazine, have deemed H&M and rival fast-fashion retailer Zara more transparent than pure-play apparel brand Everlane, whose tagline is "radical transparency."

Revealing details about the supply chain is key to evaluating how fashion production is affecting the planet and the workers in the factories and farms involved, ethical fashion stylist Kat Eves told Retail Dive in a recent email.

Good On You, which rates brands in light of their sustainability and ethics claims through its blog and app, similarly criticizes Everlane's claims as more marketing than substance, while last month rating H&M's transparency record as "a start" in light of improvements in sourcing, recycling and animal welfare and an "'A+' for its transparency and ability to trace most of its suppliers."

But the apparel maker's supply chain continues to use pollutants and many of its factories fail to pay adequately, according to Good On You. "Only between 1% and 25% of traced facilities across H&M's supply chain pay a living wage to their workers," the organization wrote last month. "On another bad note, H&M only implements some of the available worker empowerment initiatives at the final manufacturing stage and even fewer at the raw materials and inputs stages of production. That means not enough of its facilities have collective bargaining or the right for workers to make a complaint."

For now, H&M is reserving any reporting on wages for its other reports and not this particular effort, according to a company spokesperson. "The transparency initiative currently include information about supplier, factory, address and number of workers," she told Retail Dive in an email. "However, we continually report publicly, in for example our Sustainability Report, on our work and progress when it comes to fair living wages."

More fundamentally, however, its fast-fashion model makes it essentially unsustainable, according to Good On You. And that may be one area where Everlane has H&M beat.

"At the end of the day, H&M is still very much a part of the unsustainable fast fashion industry," according to Good On You. "Its promotion of 'disposable' fashion and constant rotations of new trends and products has a huge environmental impact. An increasing amount of cheap clothing ends up in landfill after a few wears due to these reasons."

PHOTOS: New Lion King Apparel and Loungefly Backpack Stampede Into... - wdwnt.com

Posted: 24 Apr 2019 11:50 AM PDT

This post may contain affiliate links; please read the disclosure for more information.

With a new live action film and the 25th anniversary of the animated film coming up, 2019 is quite a big year for The Lion King. And to top it off, Disney California Adventure will be hosting "The Lion King" Celebration from June 7 to September 2. To get into the spirit, the Disneyland Resort has launched new The Lion King apparel and a Loungefly Backpack. So now you can represent the beloved '90s film with pride this summer.

The Lion King Apparel

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

The Lion King Loungefly Backpack – $50.00

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Gray Hakuna Matata T-Shirt – $34.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Hakuna Matata Baseball Hat – $27.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Long Live the King Baseball Hat – $27.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Yellow, Sleeveless Simba Hoodie – $34.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Sleeveless Rafiki Tank – $27.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Red "Hangry" Hyena T-Shirt – $34.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

"Long Live the King" Scar T-Shirt – $24.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Orange "Foodie" Timon T-Shirt – $24.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

"I'm So Fly" Zazu T-Shirt – $24.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Family Pride Disneyland Resort T-Shirt – $24.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Adult "Hakuna Matata" Spirt Jersey – $64.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

Youth "Hakuna Matata" Spirt Jersey – $44.99

New Lion King Merchandise Disneyland Resort

We spotted this new merch at Adventureland Bazaar in Disneyland Park and World of Disney in Downtown Disney.

And while you're shopping for new The Lion King apparel, don't forget to check out the new mugs available in stores throughout the Disneyland Resort. Whether you choose a shirt, backpack, or mug, you can bring Simba home with you today.

Building the Nike of Esports: Meet the Female Founders Who Mastered the Art of Apparel Manufacturing - Forbes

Posted: 23 Apr 2019 03:33 PM PDT

Phil Knight was 24 years old when he started Blue Ribbon Sports, the company that would become Nike. Unlike Knight, who was an avid runner and sports enthusiast, Rachel Feinberg and Breanne Harrison-Pollock, both 26 years old, were not gamers but simply two best friends who unlocked the mysterious world of esports. While Nike had to challenge the large incumbent Adidas during its days of origin, Ateyo is the first company of its kind in esports. Feinberg and Harrison-Pollock first became connected during their time at Parsons School of Design. Like the University of Pennsylvania or Stanford University, Knight's alma mater, which breeds entrepreneurs in the world of finance, healthcare, and technology, Parsons is an institution based in New York City, known for producing some of the world's greatest minds in fashion such as Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, Alexander Wang, Donna Karan and many others.

Rachel Feinberg (left) and Breanne Harrison-Pollock (right) at college graduation in 2014 at Madison Square Garden.

Dr. Feinberg

Feinberg and Harrison-Pollock started on the grassroots level of gaming by attending gaming events at the local gaming scene an hour outside of Manhattan in Flushing, Queens. These gaming events and cafes served as the innovation center for Feinberg and Harrison-Pollock who would test various apparel concepts with their end-users. These cafes served as an epicenter for gamers who would come to either pay by the hour to play or compete against each other in a League of Legends LAN tournament, a small 32 contestant tournament where they would compete for top prizes such as an early Ateyo sweatshirt. "We would make different sleeves for a sweatshirt and have our prospective users game in it. At first, they thought we were crazy but eventually, they understood what we were trying to build and became excited that a company was focusing on their needs," says Feinberg.

The team initially focused on designing the best solution for a gamer's wrist, acknowledging that carpal tunnel, a condition characterized by numbness and tingling in the hand caused by a narrowing passageway in the wrist, is an issue many in the gaming industry suffer from. According to Feinberg, "the wrist is such an important part of who you are as a gamer, so we asked ourselves what we can do through apparel to support that. We started by prototyping different cuffs with thumbholes and padding and tested them with our users."

The team evaluated and observed the pain points and problems of thousands of users during the R&D process. The prototype process did not end with the wrist but focused on all types of problems ranging from how end-users sat during a match through things they would do between matches. They then mapped out and prioritized these pain points, focusing on what was most consistent across the largest segment of their user base.

Eventually, the Ateyo team reached a point where they needed to find the right manufacturing partners. Because of the novelty and custom nature of their apparel products, they first needed to develop a value-chain that fit with their needs.

The Ateyo value-chain model.

Ateyo

When the team was ready to find the right suppliers and manufacturers, they spent two weeks driving around Los Angeles meeting with a number of factories. "A lot of the factories did not provide the quality of work we were looking for. A majority could not do the pockets the way we needed them to be done or did not have the right machinery to do the appropriate stitching, so it was a long process to find the right manufacturing partners," says Harrison-Pollock. Simultaneously while searching for the right cut and sew factory, the team worked closely with a fabric mill to create a textile they believed would be ideal for their customer base. The team believes the fabric is one of the most important ingredients in manufacturing an apparel product. "After going through the process of sampling tons of products with the fabric mill, we eventually manufactured a fabric we knew was inherently breathable, sweat-wicking, soft to the touch, durable, and non-temperature withholding," says Harrison-Pollock.

A worker sewing on the assembly line.

Ateyo

Eventually, the team found a cut & sew factory 40 minutes outside of LA that was doing a lot of work for Lululemon. Knowing Lululemon has a strict protocol on factories they partner with from a quality perspective, the Ateyo team established enough trust to do their first line of production.

Rachel Feinberg (right) and Breanne Harrison-Pollock (left) at a factory in Los Angeles, April 2018.

Ateyo

Ateyo's founding team spent the majority of each week working alongside the factory workers, ensuring maximum quality of production. "We were very hands-on with the factory workers. We made sure the sewing and product finishes were correct, and while they packed the initial batch of sweatshirts, we were trimming threads," says Harrison-Pollock. After realizing the cut & sew factory was unable to scale appropriately with Ateyo's growth, they had to conduct another search and found the factory they're working with to this day based in downtown LA.

Threads in the manufacturing facility.

Ateyo

The founders are proud to be manufacturing their products in the United States when most brands choose to go overseas. "We purposely try to source as many things domestically as possible, because we believe in having our products produced in facilities that support a positive quality of life for the factory workers. We are so close with our manufacturers that we even have days where we do volunteer work with our suppliers," says Harrison-Pollock. Furthermore, the team selected LA, so they can continue to be hands-on with the production process.

Ateyo sweatshirts in bins right off the assembly line.

Ateyo

While Ateyo's mastery of apparel manufacturing and product development has helped the company succeed, their work with a number of top gamers, commentators, and influencers including those like Travis Gafford has positioned them as a leader within esports. "Working with the Ateyo team compared to other big brands has been rewarding because of how nimble they've been in their approach to the market," says Gafford. "While initially skeptical about what esports apparel would mean for the industry, the Ateyo team discounted my skepticism through their detail-oriented approach to product development. Many other companies have just raised money and tried to come into the space without taking the time to go to events, speak to gamers and learn the problems at first hand. Ateyo has fully invested their time and efforts in investigating the esports industry first-hand."

Bryce Blum, a founding Partner of ESG Law and named to the Forbes 30 Under 30 2018 List for Gaming, is an attorney and founder of the world's only dedicated esports law firm, where he represents top teams in games including League of Legends and Overwatch reports. "Gaming for decades was a thing not culturally accepted. There was a backward perspective on gaming where it was seen somewhat as an anti-social back culture. Recently, that's changed. For the first time ever, gamers are now seen as artists, athletes, and have become socially credible," Blum says. He describes Ateyo as a lifestyle brand that represents gamers in a proud way, comparing the company to where Nike was as an organization in the 1970s. "I'm excited to see where the company goes as the industry evolves. Ateyo is poised to grow along with the industry," says Blum. 

Because of his interest in apparel manufacturing and fashion, Monte Cristo, one of the industry's most notorious and talented casters, visited the fabric mills with Feinberg and Breanne-Harrison to get a deeper understanding of the products they were producing. "Breanne and Rachel's deep understanding of manufacturing and their logistical abilities to run a business is something I found interesting. They did not take the easy and cheaper route of manufacturing clothing overseas while using generic fabrics used by so many other companies. Instead, they had a detailed plan to mold their own fabrics. The fact they made their products here in the US and in LA in particular really excited me," says Cristo. Cristo believes that one of the things that make Ateyo successful is how genuine the founders are. "They entered this space because they actually want to improve people's experiences and develop products helpful for gamers. The way they do their research and create content specific to the people they're working with is truly incredible. Their attention to detail is amazing," says Cristo. 

Feinberg and Harrison-Pollock believe some of their success stems from their upbringing. Feinberg was born in a house of physicians and scientists, considering a path of her own in the world of medicine. Harrison-Pollock comes from a manufacturing and apparel household where her father spent his career designing and manufacturing structural steel and her mother spent her career creating clothes and apparel items. As such, Harrison-Pollock has always gravitated towards a passion around how things are manufactured and designed.

Rachel Feinberg (left) and Breanne Harrison-Pollock (right) at ESL One New York, 2018.

Ateyo

As for what's next, Feinberg and Harrison-Pollock have the vision to change the way people interact with their apparel. Nike started with running and Ateyo started with esports. This is the first of many steps to come.

--

I have no financial interests or ownership in Ateyo. 

Kansas Signs Huge New Apparel Deal With Adidas - The Spun

Posted: 24 Apr 2019 12:57 PM PDT

In the wake of the FBI investigation into college basketball, which has both touched Kansas basketball and involved former adidas employees, there have been questions about the continued partnership between the Jayhawks and the apparel company. Those questions end today.

Kansas is remaining with adidas for the long-term, and are getting a hefty penny to do so. KU has announced a deal that will keep the school with adidas through 2031.

The increase in pay to Kansas is pretty stark. From The Kansas City Star:

The 14-year renewal, which includes the last two years and runs through the 2030-31 school year, is worth $14 million annually and about $196 million total. KU first partnered with Adidas in 2005, signing an eight-year agreement. The pact was renewed 2013 with a six-year extension.

Compared to the six-year extension, Adidas will pay the KU athletic department an average of $3.86 million more per year in base compensation ($1.68 million vs. $5.54 million per year), $4.12 million more per year in product allowance ($2.38 million vs. $6.5 million), and about $800,000 more per year for marketing.

Kansas athletic director Jeff Long, who originally put a proposed 2017 contract extension on hold amid the NCAA issues, says the school did its "due diligence" in deciding to re-up with adidas.

The giant payout increase probably didn't hurt that said due diligence:

"Both we and Adidas have done our due diligence and thoroughly evaluated all factors related to this partnership, including the current environment related to college basketball," KU chancellor Douglas Girod said. "We are confident about this renewed partnership and look forward to continuing our relationship with Adidas."

[…]

"T.J. Gassnola was an employee of Adidas. He had an agreement with Adidas that put him in contact with our program," Long said. " … We've spent months and months and (had) exhaustive conversations about going forward and how we will handle these things in the future and arrived at the conclusion that Adidas is committed like Kansas is to make sure that we abide by NCAA rules and certainly the law of the land."

Gassnola alleges that he made payments to a pair of Jayhawks—Billy Preston and Silvio De Sousa—to help make sure they signed with the adidas school.

Preston, a heralded high school recruit, enrolled at KU but never wound up playing for the Jayhawks. De Sousa played 22 games as a freshman in 2017-18, but is currently serving a two-year suspension over the alleged payment made to his guardian.

Kansas is appealing the De Sousa suspension. If it is upheld, he will stay in the NBA Draft, which he entered last week, but his preference is to return to KU if the appeal is successful.

[The Kansas City Star]

Check out this Game of Thrones apparel from CultureFly - Winter is Coming

Posted: 24 Apr 2019 11:46 AM PDT

As Game of Thrones' final season rages on, now is a perfect time to get some GoT gear. And CultureFly is a great place to start. There's a ton of t-shirts, jackets, hats and more.

So claim your house, prepare for Winter and get some awesome looking stuff.

Winter Is Here Targaryen T-Shirt – $20

CultureFly

Black Game of Thrones t-shirt featuring the dragon sigil of House Targaryen in a ominous blue coloring. This shirt is made from 100% cotton and is officially licensed.

Stark Boxed T-Shirt – $20

CultureFly

Black Game of Thrones t-shirt featuring the House Stark sigil. Shirt is made from 100% cotton and is officially licensed.

Game of Thrones Houses Windbreaker – $50

CultureFly

Protect yourself from the elements with this black Game of Thrones windbreaker featuring a hood, lightweight design, mesh inner lining, multi-sigil chest print, and "You win or you die" printed down the left sleeve. Made from 100% polyester.

Game of Thrones Sigil Tiles T-Shirt – $20

CultureFly

Grey t-shirt featuring the sigils of Houses Targaryen, Baratheon, Greyjoy, Lannister, and Stark.

Night's Watch Hooded Sweatshirt – $50

CultureFly

Wear this awesome hoodie while you guard the Wall. Black and grey front zip hoodie features a logo design on the front and the Night's Watch Oath on the back.

Game of Thrones Premium Collector's Box – $49

CultureFly

Get premium GoT items sent right to your door once every quarter for just $49. Each box is filled with six limited edition exclusive items that were created solely for the box!

Don't wait. Check out CultureFly today and get all the Game of Thrones goodness you've been wanting. 

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